Destination Spotlight
DS
the possibility of a swimming serpent (think Nessie) adds to
centuries old magic in East Iceland. Winter’s arrival means
strapping on cross country skis or snowboards. When warm
weather returns, anglers lead the way to the Jökla and other
nearby rivers to take advantage of the long days for trout and
salmon fishing.
Arrayed along a coast indented with dramatic fjords, many
town and village eateries prepare fish, reindeer and smoked lamb
— a local specialty. Traditional skyr cheese is farm-produced
using a 1,000-year-old recipe. Bizarre foodie fans snack on
fermented shark, but for more typical freshly caught fare, try
Randulff’s Sea House overlooking the water at Eskifjördur.
Nature Up North
Birds flock, whales splash and seals glide around in the north
of Iceland. The lakes, islands, wetlands and the shores of North
Iceland are happy habitats for a wide range of wildlife.
Binocular-carrying birders can add Barrow’s goldeneyes,
harlequin ducks, gyrgalcons, rock ptarmigans, Great Northern
Gannets and Brunnich’s guillemots to their life lists. Puffin
lovers gather at Drangey,
Grimsey, Lundey, Rauðanes
and Skoruvikurbíarg. Three
birding trails with multi-day
journeys are mapped out for
the serious and the curious.
Whale-watching cruises
launched from Húsavík
harbor head to the Arctic
Ocean to spot the abundant minke whales. With more than
20 species, permanent and summer residents plus seals in the
region, there’s plenty to see. Known as the Whale Capital of
Iceland, adding a visit to the Húsavík Whale Museum makes
for a whale of a day.
Inland, Lake Mývatn is a geothermal reminder of a
volcano that erupted long before the pyramids were built.
Today, visitors slip into hot mineral waters to relax and
rejuvenate at the Myvatn Nature Baths.
East meets Iceland in Akureyri where Rub 23 fuses the two
using local fish and Asian spice. How about enjoying ice cream
in a classy cowshed? Grab a sandwich first because Vogaflós
bakes its rye bread in geothermal ground close to Lake Myvatn.
Naturally, wild scenery goes well with the animal life of
the North. Just west of Hunafjordur, a stunning rock arch
known as the Hvítserkur vaults off shore. The country’s
longest fjord, Eyiafjordur is where a pleasant summer ferry
sails to Hrisey Island, often called “The Pearl.” No taxis here,
tractor rides are the best way to tour the island where
migratory birds outnumber the residents.
Way Out in the West
With a national park that rocks with a glacier and geologic
formations, Iceland’s West is wild. Endangered domestic goats
are preserved. Plus organic farms make it easy for visitors to
enjoy fine local fare.
Named for the glacier that commands breathtaking
attention, National Park not only stretches to the sea, but is
also a cornucopia of rock formations. The landscape is a virtual
record of the country dating to the ice age. The glacier that’s
the icy heart of Iceland’s first national park rises close to 4,700
feet and offers views as far west as the fjords.
Check out tours to lava flows turned rock in Vatnshellir
Cave or listen to the lilting echo in the Sönghellir Cave.
For a softer side, Háafell Goats and Roses strives to save an
endangered breed of Icelandic goats. The breed arrived with
the first settlers. Then after admiring the rose garden (rare this
far north,) pick up
handmade soaps and
ointments. Need more
warmth? Head to
Hesppuhúsið, a.k.a. The
Yarn House, where the
studio’s yarns are dipped
into plant-based dye
pots. For fabulous, hand
finished goods, visit Ullarseld —Wool Center.
Kayaking in the Westfjords often means seal companions
in the summer. Then wind-breaking walls, allow winter
paddling under the Northern Lights. Those intrigued by the
Gílsa Saga, will appreciate secluded Geirbjófsfjörður. Jeep
tours go year-round depending on the temperature, tours head
up to high plains or the Drangajökull glacier.
Acclaimed all around, the Geiraabakarí Café in Borgarnes
serves coffee, pastries and sandwiches where diners love the
view, too. Look for memorable fish soup and homemade cakes
at the Gamla Rif Café tucked into the oldest house in Rif. It
doesn’t get more local than Ljómalind, a farmer’s market in
Borgarnes where a woman’s co-op deliver delicious with farm
fresh products and an on-site restaurant.
At every compass point, Iceland is full of natural wonders
with tongue twisting names, but English is widely spoken by
friendly people.
The lakes, islands, wetlands
and the shores of North
Iceland are happy habitats for
a wide range of wildlife.
70
THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER
|
Destination Spotlight
